Pinking mechanism for sewing machines



Nov. 30, 1937. A. SPIELMAN PINKING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed June 15, 1936 8 Sheets-Sheet l a ll,

Nov. 30, 193.7. A. WSPIELMAN PINKING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed June 15, 1956 8 Sheets-Sheet 2 NOV. 30, 1937. sp 2,100,987

PINKING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed June 15, 1936 8 Sheets-Sheet 3 F HHHHI Nov. 30, 1937. A. SPIELMAN 2,100,987

PINKING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed June 15, 1936 8 Sheets-Sheet 4 Noy. 30, 1937.

A. SPIELMAN PINKINQ MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed June 15, 1936 8 Sheets-Sheet ,5

Nov; 30, 1937. A} EL N 2,100,987

TNKING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed June 15, 1936 8 Sheets-Sheet 6 NOV. 30, 1937. SPIELMAN 2,100,987

. v ,PINKING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES i Filed June 15, 1956 8 Sheets-Sheet.7

' Nov. 30, 1937. A. SPIELMAN ,100,987

- PINKING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed June 15, 1936 8 Sheets-Sheet 8 Patented Nov. 30, 1937 PINKING MECHANISM FOR MACHINES PATENT OFFICE SEWING Adolph Spielman, Philadelphia, Pa., assignor to Sarah Spielman, Philadelphia, Pa.

Application June 15, 1936, Serial No. 85,418

- 14 Claims.

This invention relates to pinking mechanism for sewing machines.

The object of the present invention is to provide pinking mechanism which can be applied to a standard make sewing machine, such, for example, as a Singer machine, without necessitating any changes in the mechanism of the.

standard sewing machine except the substitution of a few parts and the possible drilling and tapping of one or two holes in the frame of the standard sewing machine for securing the elements of Another object of the invention is to produce an extremely simple form of pinking attachment for a standard sewing machine and to connect the primary operating element of the attachment to a normally movable element of that part of the mechanism of the sewing machine, i. e. the feeding mechanism, by which the length of stitch produced by the sewing machine is effected and whereby the operation of the pinking attachment will be in synchronization with the operation of the feeding mechanism of the sewing machine at all times and will vary with any variations that may be made in the stitch length, as provided for by normal adjustment of the feed-regulating mechanism of the sewing machine.

Specifically the object of the invention is to provide a rotary pinking wheel below the work-'sup-' porting surface of the sewing machine and a cooperating rotary anvil abovethe work-supporting surface of the sewing machine for co-op'eration with the pinking wheel; and to connect'the driving mechanism of the pinking wheel with the rock shaft of the sewing machine by which the feed of the material along the work-supporting surface of the sewing machine is accomplished.

The construction and operation of the mechanism forming the subject matter of the present invention and such of the mechanism of the standard sewing machine as will be necessary to provide a clear understanding of the present invention will be fully disclosed hereinafter, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, of which: a

Fig. 1 is a front elevation of a standard sewing machine illustrating the mechanism of the present invention as applied thereto;

Fig. 2 is an inverted plan view of the machine 5 shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a transverse sectional elevation taken on the line 3-3 Fig. 1; I

Fig. 4 is a transverse-sectional elevation taken on the line 4-4, Fig. 2;

Fig. 5 is a transverse sectional elevation substantially on the line 5-5; Fig. 2;

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary plan view partly in section as taken on the line 6-6, Fig. 1;

Fig. '7 isa longitudinal sectional elevation taken on the line '|-l, Fig. 6;

Fig. 8 is a view similar to Fig. 7 showing some of the elements in outside view and illustrating the mechanism as operating on material being stitched by the sewing machine;

Fig. 9 is a longitudinal sectional elevation taken on the line 9-9, Fig. 6;

Fig. 10 is a view similar to Fig. 6 showing a modified arrangement of the elements thereof;

Fig. 11 is a transverse'sectional elevation taken onthe line I l--| I,F1g. 10;

Fig. 12 is'a transverse sectional elevation taken on the line l2l2, Fig. 10;

Fig. 13 is a perspective view of certain of the,

' elements shown in Fig. 12 in' the course of operating upon material being fed across the work-supporting surface of the sewing machine;

Fig. 14 is a section on the line ll-M, Fig. 13;

Fig. 15 is a View similar to Fig. 7, and illustrating a modified arrangement of driving mechanism for the pinking wheel;

Fig. 16 is a transverse sectional elevationtaken on the line Iii-l6, Fig. 15;

Fig. '17 is a sectional elevation taken on the line l'l-ll, Fig. 16;

' Fig. 18 is a side elevation of a detail .of the mechanism shown in Fig. 15;

Figs. 19 and 20 illustrate fabric swatches stitched together in the form of a so-called French seam and pinked in accordance with the principles of the present invention; and

Figs. 21 and 22 are similar views illustrating a flat seam and pinked edges as produced on the machine equipped with the mechanism forming the subject matter of the present invention.

As shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, the sewing machine includes a substantially flatbed plate or base I which is provided with depending feet or other downwardly extending lugs or projections the usual flat substantially horizontal work-supporting surface I above'and to one end of which vertically projects the usual hollow standard 6 of the head 9 of the sewing machine. The head 9 also includes the usual laterally extending arm I0,

at the outer end of which is the usual housing II which encloses and supports the upper portion of the needle bar II and presser bar I2 and the mechanism by which these bars are vertically reciprocated in timed relation to each other, the

power for producing said vertical reciprocations of the bars I I and I2 being provided through the usual main shaft I3 of the sewing machine to which power is applied from a suitable source through the usual grooved pulley I4.

= The machine as usual is provided with a rotary bobbin, shuttle, or other stitch locking mechanism I5 which co-operates'with the needle I6, carried by the needle bar II, to produce the usual lock or-chain stitch as commonly used in securing two or more plies of material together.

The stitch lock mechanism. I5 as usual is rotated in the present instance continuously in one direction through a shaft I! which is disposed under the bed plate I and which is provided, at

the end opposite tothat on which the stitch .lock mechanism I5 is mounted, with a bevel gear The shuttle shaft I'I, through the bevel gear I8, an intermeshing bevel g'ear I9 ,on the lower end of a vertical shaft 29, a bevelled gear 2I on the upper end of the shaft 20, and'an intermeshing bevel gear 22' on the main shaft I3 of the machine, receives continuous rotation in one direction and at the same speed as the main shaft I3, whereby normal lock stitches are produced by co-operative action between the needle I6 and the shuttle mechanism I5.

In addition to the above, the'normal standard sewing machine includes the usual feed dog 23 which co-operates with a presser foot 24 carried on the lower end of the presser bar I2 to feed the material being operated upon transversely of and from the front toward the back across the work-supporting surface I. a

i The feed dog 23 includes the usual toothed face 25 which is raised into engagement with the under side of the fabric pressing the same upwardly against the under surface'of the presser foot 24. The feed dog 23 then moves. rearwardly to an extent corresponding to the length of the stitch desired, then downwardly, clear of the fabric, then forwardly in an, opposite direction to that in which the fabric has been fed, and.

then upwardly into engagement with the under side of the fabric for a repeat of the feeding operation, these movements taking place after each stitch is made by co-operation between the nee-' dle I6 and the shuttle mechanism I5.

The feed dog 23, as usual, is carried on a more or less floating link 26, one end of which is pivotally connected at 21 to the upper end of a rocker arm 28, said rocker arm being rigidly connected to a rock shaft 29 which extends longitudinally of the bed plate I and is mounted for oscillation upon point bearings 39 and 3|. The point bearings 30 and 3I are mounted in the depending lugs 3 and 5 respectively on the under side of the bed plate I.

The opposite ends of the floating link 26 is slotted, as indicated at 32, for the reception of'a guide pin 33 which is carried on the outer end of The arm 34 is rigidly secured to a 2,100,987 .2, a, 4,5 and s. The bed plate I is provided with 35 which is disposed substantially parallel to the rock shaft 29 and is supported at its opposite ends by the usual point bearings 36 and 31 which are respectively mounted in the depending lugs 4 and 6 below the bed plate I.

v The rocking'of the shaft 29 produces the longitudinal reciprocatory movement of the floating link 26, by which the material feeding and return motions of the feed dog 23 are produced; and the rocking of the shaft 35.produces the vertical movements of the feed dog 23, by which said feed dog is caused to contact and release the fabric being operated upon.

The opposite-ends of the two rock shafts 29 and 35 are respectively provided with arms 38 and 39. The outer end of the arm 39 on the rock shaft 35 is connected to one end of a reach rod or link 40, the opposite end of which is provided ed in suitable grooves formed in the opposite sides respectively of a block 46 which encircles a second eccentric 41 secured to the main shaft I3 and through which, for each revolution of said main shaft, the rock shaft 29 is oscillated and produces a backward and then aforward move- .ment of the feed dog 23 for each stitch produced.

The length of the backward and forward movements of the feed dog 23 is regulated, and can be adjusted at will, through mechanism including a link 48 having one end pivotally connected to the yoke .44 of the link 43 and its opposite end connected at 59 to the outer end of one arm 5| of a stitch regulating bell-crank lever 52, said bell-crank lever being pivoted at 53 to a fixed portion of the frame of the machine within the hollow standard 8. The second arm 54 of the stitch-regulating bell-crank lever 52 is threaded at 55 for the'reception of a clamp nut 56, the base of which is adapted to slide over a segmental surface 51 formed on the outer surface of the standard 8, when adjusting the machine .to produce a certain length stitch, and to be clamped firmly against said surface 51 when the desired stitch lengthis obtained.

The swingingof the bell-crank lever 52 about its pivot 53 regulates the length of the stitch produced by the machine and machines of this type are usually so built that the machine may produce from six' to eighteen stitches perinch,

for example, or any desired stitch length therebetween.

The mechanism so far described constitutes the regular and standard parts of a standard sewing machine and which constitute no part of the present invention per se, such description being provided for the purpose of illustrating how the mechanism constituting the subject matter of the present invention can be mounted on and actuated in definite relationship to the elements of a standardsewing machine.

The bed plate I of the standard sewing ma chine is normally provided with a recess extending inwardly from that end thereof above which 'the'housing II is mounted, for the reception of flush with the work-supporting surface 'I of the bed plate I and which are normally removable for inspection and adjustment of the stitch mechanism of the machine. One of the throat sections is provided with a suitable slot in which the feed dog 23 operates and a suitable opening through which the needle of the machine passes for co-operation with the shuttle mechanism during the stitch formation. The present invention contemplates the substitution of a throat plate 68 in the inner end of the recess 59 for the corresponding throat plate section of the standard sewing machine.

Normally the shuttle shaft II is rotatably mounted in a bushing which in turn is fixedly mounted in an opening 6| formed in the depending foot or lug 2 of the sewing machine. The present invention contemplates the removal of such bushing and the substitution therefor of a sleeve shaft 82 which in addition to functioning as a bearing for the shaft I I is utilized in the present instance to effect operation of the pinking wheel of the present invention as will be fully disclosed hereinafter.

The only further alterations necessary to the standard machine, in order to equip the same with the mechanism forming the subject matter of the present invention, is to drill and tap a hole 83 in the lug 2. The present mechanismotherwise utilizes such tapped openings .as are already found in the standard sewing machine for securing the parts in place.

The present invention includes a rotary pinking wheel 85 which is mounted substantially in axial alignment with the shuttle shaft II and is provided with the cavity 66 within which the revolving shuttle mechanism I5 is disposed and by means of which the pinking face 81 of'the wheel 65 is brought into relatively close relation to the needle I6.

The pinking face 61 is provided with cutting edges 68 which may be arranged in the usual zig-zag relation toeach other or which may be in the form of curved undulations or of any desired shape to produce a pinked edge of any desired design.

The pinking wheel 85 is provided with a central bore 89 encircling the hub III of the rotary shuttle or bobbin or hook carrier I5 with suffieient clearance between the hub and the bore to permit the hub III to revolve freely within the bore without contact with the walls of the bore 69. In a like manner the cavity 68 is of such shape and such dimensions as to permit the rotary element I5 of the shuttle mechanism to revolve freely without contacting the walls of the cavity 66.

The pinking wheel is also counterbored as at II, the circular wall I2 of said counterbore functioning as one element of a clutch by which the pinking wheel is intermittently rotated, step by'step, in accordance with and in synchronization with the cloth-feeding movements of the feed dog 23. A second element of the drive clutch for the pinkirg wheel is in the form of a disk I3 which is formed integral with or is suitably secured in a rigid manner to one end of the sleeve shaft 62 which surrounds and forms the bushing for the shuttle shaft II.

As shown in Fig. 5, the disk I3 is provided with substantially triangular peripheral cavities I I in which are mounted clutch rollers or balls I5, said elements being, confined between the angular walls I6 and II of the cavities I4 and the inner circular peripheral face or wall I2 of the counterbore 'II in the pinking wheel 85, springs I8 being seated in suitable pockets I9 formed in ,the substantially radial walls 11 of the cavities I4 and bearing against the rollers or balls I5 to maintain the rollers I5 in close bearing contact with the convergentwalls I8 and I2 of the disk I3 and pinking wheel respectively atall times, whereby rearward oscillatory movement of the sleeve shaft 82, i. e. movement in acounterclockwise direction, as viewed in Fig. 5, will jam the rollers I5 between the disk I3 and the pinking wheel 65 and lock the two together and rotate the pinking wheel at the same time and to the same peripheral extent as the 1ongitudinal rearward linear movement of the feed dog 23, so that the pinking is effected step by step with the stitch formation of the sewing machine.

Oscillation of the sleeve shaft 62 in the opposite direction releases the disk I3 from the pinking wheel 85 permitting the pinking wheel to stand in the position to which it was moved at the extreme end of the first said). oscillatory movement of the disk I3.

Corresponding forward movement of the pinking wheel is prevented by a roller 88 operating between the outer peripheral surface 8| of the pinking wheel 85 and an inclined surface 82 formed in a bracket 83 which is secured to the through an arm 88 which is rigidly secured to the.

end of the sleeve shaft 62 opposite to that on which the disk I3 is mounted. The lever 86 is connected by a link 81 to a lever 88 which is rigidly secured to the rock shaft 29, that is, the

shaft which produces the longitudinal reciprocations of the feed dog 23.

From the foregoing, it will be clear that as the rock shaft 29 rocks in one direction to move the feed dog 23 backward, that is, in the direction in which the feed dog feeds the fabric away from .the sewing needle I8, the disks I3 then looked to the pinking wheel 85 will, through the levels 85 and 88 and the connecting link 81, rotate the pinking wheel 85, at its peripheral pinking face 81, a distance equal to the linear movement of the feed dog 23, so that the pinking and sewing are effected equally step by step as the fabric is sewn gree of rotation of the pinking wheel 65. Hence, Y

regardless of the length of the stitch, that is, the extent of movement of the feed dog 23, lengthening or shortening the stitch will correspondingly wheel 65, so that a definite equal movement between the feed dog and the peripheral face 61 of the pinking wheel is at all times maintained.

In order to effect the pinking operation the goods being sewn and pinked must be pressedfirmly against the serrated peripheral edge orv face 61 of the pinking wheel 85 and for this purpose a relatively thin flat anvil disk 90 is rotatably mounted directly above the peripheral edge of the .65 L affect the peripheral movement of the pinking pinking wheel with the axis of the disc 90 disposed substantially at right angles to the axis of The anvil disk 90 is mounted for rotation about a stud 92, ball bearings 93 being provided to run in a grooved formed in the upper flat surface of the anvil disk 90 and a groove 94 formed in the base 95 or undercut surface of a pressure arm 96,

in which the anvil disk stud 92 is secured. a

The pressure arm 96 is mounted immediately above the upper surface 98 of the throat plate 60- which, in accordance with the principles of the present invention, is substituted for the back section of the normal throat plate of the machine. The throat plate 60 is provided with an anchorage I for the pressure arm' 96 and by which longitudinal movement of the arm 96 is eliminated.

The anchorage I00 in the present instance comprises a pin I M which is secured in the one end of the pressure arm 96 opposite to that on which the anvil 90 is mounted, said pin IOI being disposed in a vertical slot I02 formed in a block I03 which is secured to the throat plate 60.

The actual pressure of the anvil disk 90 against the cutting face 61 of the pinking wheel 65 is effected by means of a screw stud I06 which is secured in the throat plate 60 and on which is threaded a nut I04 seated in a counterbore I05 formed in the upper surface of the pressure arm 96; The throat plate 60 in turn is rigidly secured in place by screws 64 threaded into the regular tapped openings in the base plate I by which the regular throat plate of the standard machine is secured in place.

Threaded into and through the pressure arm 96, adjacent the' anchorage I 00 therefor, isv a levelling screw I01, the lower end of which bears against the upper surface of the throat plate 60. A look nut I08 is provided to secure the levelling screw I01 in the position to which it is adjusted.

In order to effect clean, sharp cutting of the fabric between the serrated face 61 of the pinking wheel 65 and the flat surface 9| of the anvil 90 the surface 9| of the anvil must bear flatly against the serrated surface 61 of the pinking wheel and by manipulating the screws I 04 and 50 I01 such levelling of the anvil with respect to the pinking wheel may be readily accomplished, the screw I04 regulating the pressure of the anvil against the pinking wheel and the screw I01 functioning to effect 'the proper level of the anvil with respect to the pinking wheel? The relatively loose anchorage I00 provided by the mechanism above described permits of such levelling movement of the arm 96, insofar as free vertical movement of the pins IN is concerned.

In order to keep the pinking wheel from binding on the shuttle mechanism of the sewing machine as a result of the pressure required to effect cutting of the material between the serrated face 61 of the pinking wheel and the fiat face 9| of the anvil 90, the pinking wheel is sup-ported independently of the shuttle mechanism and for that purpose the bracket 83 above referred to is formed of two parts I09 and H0 respectively.

The portion I09 of the bracket 83 is in the form of a yoke, as clearly shown in Fig. 5, and itis in this part that the inclined surface 82 of a lock roller 80 of the pinking wheel 65 is formed, said inclined surface being formed in the upper end of one arm III of the yoke in such a manner that the axis of the roller 80 is at all times above the axis of rotation of the pinking wheel 65. Ap-

80, and preferably above the axis of rotation of the pinking wheel 65, and mounted in the second arm I I2 of the yoke member I09, is a second roller I I3 which revolves about an axle or pivot shaft III. The rollers H3 and 80 contacting with the outer peripheral surface 8I of the pinking wheel 65 guide the pinking wheel horizontally in its rotation about the axis of the shaft I1, without producing any lateral pressure in a horizontalplane against the shuttle shaft I1.

Below the pinking wheel 65 and bearing against the lower part of the peripheral surface 8| thereof is a pair of thrust bearings H5, H5, each of which is rotatably mounted upon a stud II6. Each stud H6 is carried by an eccentric II1 which is rotatably mounted in the yoke I09, in order'to adjust the thrust bearings II5 into contact with the peripheral surface 8I of the pinking wheel. 65 in an accurate manner to take the downward thrust produced in the pinking op-' eration without permitting the pinking wheel to exert any downward pressure on the shuttle shaft I1.

The thrust bearings II5 while they may be in the form of a plain wheel are preferably in the bearing wheel and contacting with the peripheral surface 8| of the pinking wheel and the inner race mounted on the stud II6 with the balls of the bearing between said races in the usual manner to produce a substantially frictionless roller support for the pinking wheel.

The above construction throws the thrust of the cutting onto the yoke I09 which in turn, through a threaded pin II1 screwed into-the threaded hole 63 formed in the depending lug or foot 2 of the machine, transfers the cutting thrust directly to the solid, rigid base of the machine. 1

In order to prevent wabbling of the pinking -wheel as it rotates. about the axis of the shuttle shaft I1, the throat plate 60 is provided with a slot II9 through which the upper portion of the serrated face 61 of the pinking wheel extends. The walls of said slot bear against the opposite sides respectively of said wheel portion. The outer end face I20 of the pinkingwheel is engaged throughout a substantial portion of the circumference of the pinking wheel, below the bed plate I,by a rib having av bearing surface I 2I and which is formed on the cover section IIO of the bracket 83, said cover plate section IIO being secured to the yoke section I09 by a plurality of screws I22.

The remaining portion of the recess 59 in which the throat plate 60 is mounted is closed in the usual manner by a throat plate section I23 which may be the normal outer section of the throat plate provided on a standard machine as shipped to a consumer.

The material to be seamed together or sewn together and pinked while being sewed may be fed flatly to the needle, the feed dog, the pinking wheel and the anvil through the usual slot I25 formed between the under surface of the presser foot 24 and the upper surface of the throat plate with the two layers of the fabric a and b disposed in flat superimposed relation to each other as illustrated in Fig. 21 and wherein the twolayers of fabric will be secured together by a row of stitches c with a sufficient amount of material, in- 1 a and b, after sewing, being separated and spread out flatly as in Fig. 21 with the pinked portion d of each piece turned back upon the pieces a. and b respectively to produce the ordinary common flat seam generally indicated at ,f in Fig. 22.

Preferably, the mechanism of the present invention is arranged to produce what is commonly known as a French seam indicated at g in Figs. 19 and 20 and to produce such a seam with a single row of stitches indicated at c in said figures, the. two pieces of material a and b are fed to the needle and to the pinking mechanism through a suitable folding mechanism shown principally in Figs. 1, 6 and 9.

The folder includes an attaching plate I30 which is adjustably secured to the throat plate J by means of a screw I3I and to which is secured an inside folding plate I32 and an outside folding plate I33. The inside folding plate I32 extends upwardly from the attaching plate I30 and longitudinally thereof and beyond the end I31 of the plate I 30, and provides a substantially flat support for the piece of material b. The plate I 32 beyond theend I31 of the 'platel30 bends downwardly and inwardly as indicated at I34 and I35 respectively and about which the shg material b bends in a like manner.

tending substantially parallel to the portion I35 of the inside folding plate I32.is a fabricseparating plate I36 which lies between the material b and the material a which latter rests on the upper surface of the throat plate 60 and on the upper surface 1 of the bed plate I in front of and in back of the throat plate.

The separating plate I36 forms part of the outside folding plate I33 and extends outwardly from the end I31 of the plate I30 and bends upwardly and is spaced from the curved portion of the plate I32, as indicated at I30, and then inwardly over and in spaced relation to the flat portionof the inside folding plate I32, as indicated in Fig. 9.

The ends of the plates I32 and I36 which lie adjacent to the end I31 of the plate I30 are secured together and to the end I31 of the plate I30 as by soldering, welding, or in any other suitable manner to form the plates I 30, I32 and I33 into a rigid unit.

The inside and outside folding plates I32 and I33 converge toward each other as they approach the stitching point, as clearly shown in Fig. 6,

' said plates terminating in front of the pressure 33 which is secured to and projects laterally from the presser foot 24 as indicated in Fig. 8, and the needle I6 at the same time passes through the double thickness of the piece b and the single thickness of the piece a. stitching the two together while the single thicknesses of the piece a and the piece b, beyond the line of stitching c formed by the needle I6, pass between the anvil 30 and the serrated face 61 of the pinking wheel 65, to be pinked in the manner indicated in Figs. 19 and =20, thereby forming the French seam with a single row of sitches c.

the single row of stitches c, after which the material is again fed through the sewing machine to produce a second row of stitches through the superposed layers of the fold of the piece '1) and the single thickness of the piece a, between the row of stitches c and the pinked edges 6 of said pieces a and b. Hence the apparatus just described produces in a single operation a French seam which heretofore has required two separate and distinctsewing operations.

g In the apparatus hereinbefore described the sewing and the cutting of the material between the serrated face 61 of .the pinking wheel 65 and the flat surface 3| of the anvil 30 were effected on a common line extending longitudinally of the machine and passing through the axis of the needle and the axis of the pinking wheel and by so doing seams along inside curved edges of pre-. viously shaped pieces of material a and b or outside curves of the design to which said pieces were cut could be readily pinked.

In producing straight seams solely, or scams or curves of large radius, it is preferred to pink the edges of the two pieces of material in rearwardly ofiset relation to the stitching point rather than in line with the stitching of the pieces together and for this purpose the arrangement of the anvil with respect to the pinking wheel as shown in Figs. 10, 11 and 12 is preferably employed. As shown in said figures, the axis of the anvil, while still remaining in a plane radially to the axis of the pinking wheel, is tilted rearwardly with respect to the vertical axis of the needle, and, as shown in Fig. 10, where the axis of the needle and the axis of the pinking wheel are in the same line 12-12:. the point of contact between the pinking wheel and the anvil, and which is indicated at 11-11, is spaced 'rearwardly from the-line :c-zc.

so that, as shown in Fig. 13, the needle I6 first stitches the two pieces of material together, at

the line :r--:r, and the pinking occurs subsequentception of the anchorage for the pressure arm 36' and the folder for the material b.

In Fig. 10, the lateral pins IOI 'are eliminated and a guide pin I33 is substituted and which projects upwardly from the throat plate into a slot, I40 formed in the pressure arm 3611.

In some instances, the folder instead of being mounted on the throat plate 60, as, for example, inFig. 6, may be carried solely by the presser foot 24a, as indicated in Figs. 10, 12, 13 and 14, wherein the folder plates I32'a: and I330. are formed of one piece or soldered or otherwise secured together and to the saidpresser foot.

In some instances, the clutch drive for the pinking wheel may be replaced by a drive of the character indicated in Figs. 15 and 16, wherein the disk 13 on the one end of the sleeve shaft 62 is supplanted by a rocker plate I13 having a laterally extending arm I14 which support bearings I15 and I16. respectively.

Rotatably mounted in the bearings I15 and I16 is a screw shaft I11 which, between said bearings, is provided with a multiple pitch screw or worm I13. The worm I13 meshes with a worm wheel I13 formed on the pinking wheel I65.

One end of the worm shaft I11 is provided with a disk I having triangular recesses I8I in which are placed clutch rollers I82. The clutch rollers I82 work between the walls of the triangular recesses I8I and the inner peripheral face I83 of an annular extension I84 formed on the one end of the bearing I16.

In the above case, when the sleeve shaft 82a rocks in one direction the worm shaft I11 is locked to the plate I13 so that it cannot revolve in the bearings I15 and I18 and consequently, being in intermeshing engagement with the worm wheel I19, rotates the pinking wheel I65 in the same manner as before described. At the end of the rocking motion of the sleeve shaft 62a in said direction and at the beginning of the oscillation of the sleeve shaft 82a in the opposite direction the pinking wheel I85 is held against reverse movement with the sleeve shaft 62a by the detent roller 82 in the same manner as before described. 4 a

The return oscillation of the sleeve shaft 82a rocks the plate I13 in a direction opposite to that in which it had been previously rocked and bodily carries the worm I18 around the worm wheel I19 and due to the fact that the worm wheel is rigidly connected to the pinking wheel and is held against rotation along with and by the pinking wheel the worm I18 is caused to rotate thereby rotating the worm shaft I11 in such a direction that the rollers I82 run freely in front of the shoulders I85 of the disk I80 and freely sliding over the surface I83 of the fixed annular extension I84 of the bearing I18.

As soon as the direction of oscillation of the sleeve shaft 62a is again reversed the detent roller 82 releases the pinking wheel and the rolls I82 become jammed between the annularsurface I88 of the disk I80 and the inner peripheral surfaces I83 of the fixed annularextension I84, whereby the worm I18 is again locked against rotation and firmly locks the pinking wheel to the oscillating plate I13.

In order to provide the necessary room for the swinging plate I13 and the bearings I15 and I18 as well as the worm I18 and worm wheel I 19 the yoke support'l 09a which takes the downward cutting thrust of the pinking wheel is reduced in Width and the mechanism noted above is positioned between said thrust plate I 09a and the depending lug 2 of the machine.

In addition to the thrust pin II 1, previously described, which transferred the thrust of the plate I09 to the depending lug 2, the plate I09 is provided with a lug I90 at one of its sides and through which passes a screw I9I which secures the lug I90 to a pad I92 formed on the under side of the bed plate I and which is a part of the standardmachine as sold to the consumer, said Dad having a suitably threaded opening reception of the screw I9I.

In the instance of the structure shown in Figs. 15 and 16, wherein the width of the thrust plate I09a is reduced from that of .the corresponding plate I09 shown in Figs. 7 and 8,'and in view of the elimination of the thrust pin 1 to provide the space for the worm I 18 and its associated mechanism, the plate I 09a as shown in Fig. 18 is provided with the lug I 90 and screw I9I as described above on the one side thereof and a corresponding lug I90a and screw I9Ia at the opp site side thereof and which is threaded into a suitable opening required to be made. in the bed plate I of the machine and which would, together for the with the lug I90 and screw I9I support the thrust plate I09a.

If and when it is desired to sew regular work,

without pinking, the pressure arm 96 may be readily removed, carrying with it theanvil 90, which together with the removal of the folding unit I30-I32I33 places the machine in condition for such work. Also, if desired, the presser foot 24 with the guide plate thereon can be replaced by a regular presser foot without such guide. The entire throat plate 60 may be removed .and replaced by a throat plate having merely a slot or an upward bulge to accommodate or cover that portion of the pinking wheel which projects slightly above the plane of the Work-supporting surface 1, if desired, when the machine 'is to be used for regular sewing.

I claim:

1. A pinking attachment for a sewing machine having awork-suppoiting surface, said attachment comprising a rotary pinking wheel rotatably mounted beneath said surface about an axis substantially parallel to said surface and a cooperating rotary anvil disk rotatably mounted above said surface about an axis substantially perpendicular to said pinking wheel axis with a flat side of the disk in contact with the peripheral face of the pinking wheel.

2. A pinking attachment for a sewing machine having a work-supporting surface, said attachment comprising a rotary pinking wheel rotatably mounted beneath said surface about an axis substantially parallel to said surface and a cooperating rotary anvil disk rotatably mounted above said surface about an axis substantially perpendicular to said pinking wheel axis with a fiat side of the disk in contact with the peripheral face of the pinkingwheel, and means comprising a substantially flat bar disposed closely adjacent and substantially parallel to the plane of said surface for supporting said anvil and exerting pressure by said flat side thereof against the peripheral face ofthe pinking wheel at the point of contact between the two.

, 3. A pinking attachment for a sewing machine having a work-supporting surface, said attachment comprising a rotary pinking wheel rotatably mounted beneath said surface about an axis substantially parallel to said'surface and a cooperating rotary anvil disk rotatably mounted above said surface about an axis substantially perpendicular to said pinking wheel axis with a flat side of the disk. in contact with the peripheral face of the pinking wheel, and means for varying the relation of one of said axes with respect to the other of said axes to effect a fiat contact of the fiat face of the anvil across the peripheral face of the pinking wheel.

4. A pinking attachment for a sewing machine having a work-supporting surface, said attachment comprising a rotary pinking wheel rotatably mounted beneath said surface about an axis substantially parallel to said surface and a cooperating rotary anvil disk rotatably mounted above said surface aboutan axissubst'antially perpendicular to said pinking wheel axis with a fiat side of the disk in contact with the peripheral face of the pinking Wheel, means comprising a substantially flat bar disposed closely adjacent and substantially parallel to the plane of said surface for supporting said anvil and exerting pressure by said fiat side thereof against the periph-'' eral face of the pinking wheel at the point of contact between the two, and means for varying the relation of one of said axes with respect to perpendicular to said pinking wheel axis with a the other. of said axes to effect a flat contact of the flat face of, the anvil across the peripheral face of the pinking wheel.

5. A pinking attachment for a sewing machine having a work-supporting surface, said attache ment comprising a rotary pinking wheel rotatably mounted beneath said surface about an axis substantially parallel to said surface and a cooperating rotary anvil disk rotatably mounted above said surface about an axis substantially flat side of the disk in contact with the peripheral face of the pinking 'wheel, a low substantially flat element disposed above and lying closely adjacent and substantially parallel to said surface and which rotatably supports said anvil disk, and means for applying pressure'to said element to effect cutting pressure between said disk and said pinking wheel. a a

6. A pinking attachment for a sewing machine having a work-supporting surface, said attachment comprising a rotarypinking wheel rotatably mounted beneath said surface about an axis substantially parallel to said surface'and acooperating rotary anvil disk rotatably mounted above said surface about an axis substantially perpendicular to said pinking wheel axis with a -fiat side of the disk in contact with the peripheral face of the pinking wheel, a low substantially fiat element disposed above and lying closely adjacent and substantially parallel to said surface and which rotatably supports said anvil disk, and means for actuating said element to bring the fiatface of the disk into fiat contact across the peripheral face of said wheel.

7. A pinking attachment for a sewing machine which includes a work-supportingsurface', means for feeding material along said surface, and means for intermittently actuating said feeding means, said attachment comprising a rotary pinking wheel rotatably mounted beneath said surface about an axis substantially parallel to said surface, a cooperating anvil rotatably mounted above said surface about an axis substantially perpendicular to said pinking wheel axis, and means operatively connected to the means for intermittently actuating said feeding means for intermittently actuating said pinking wheel in synchronization with said feeding means,

8. A pinking attachment for a sewing machine which includes a work-supporting surface, a vertically reciprocating needle, a rotary stitch locking mechanism beneath said surface and co-operating with saidneedle, means for feeding material along said surface, and means for intermittently actuating said feeding means, said attachment comprising a rotary pinking wheel ro-.

tatably mounted beneath said surface substanwheel in synchronization with said feeding means.

' 9. A pinking attachment for a sewing machine which includes a work-supporting surface, a vertically reciprocating needle, a rotary stitch lock- I ing mechanism beneath said surface and cooperating with said needle, means for feeding material along said surface, and means for intermittently actuating actuating said feeding means, said attachment comprising a rotary pinking wheel rotatably mounted beneath said surface substantially coaxially with said rotary stitch lock mechanism about substantially coinciding axes disposed substantially parallel to said surface with the pinking wheel disposed adjacent one side of said needle, a co,-operating anvil comprising a disk rotatably mounted above said surface about an axis substantially perpendicular to said coinciding axes with a flat side of said disk in' contact with the peripheral face of the pinking wheel, means operatively connected tothe means for intermittently actuating said feeding means for intermittently actuating said pinking wheel in synchronization with said feeding a vertically reciprocating needle, a rotary stitch locking mechanism beneath said surface and cooperating with said needle, means for feeding material along said surface, and means for intermittently actuating said feeding means, said attachment comprising a rotary pinking wheel ro- 1 tatably mounted beneath said surface substantially coaxially with said rotary stitch lock mechanism about substantially coinciding axes disposed substantially parallel to said surface with the pinking wheel disposed adjacent one side of saidneedle, a co-operating anvil comprising a disk rotatably mounted above said surface about an axis substantially perpendicular to said coinciding axes with a flat side of said disk in contact with the peripheral face of the pinking wheel, means operatively connected to the means for intermittently actuating said feeding means for intermittently actuating said pinking wheel in synchronization with said feeding means, means -for supporting said pinking wheel independently of said axially aligned rotary stitch lock mechanism including'a thrust bracket, and a plurality of thrust bearings carried by said bracket and.

engaging a peripheral surface of said wheel at relatively spaced points circumferentially thereof.

11. A sewing machine comprising a'work-supporting surface, means for feeding two-ply material in superposed relation to each other along said surface, a stitching needle reciprocable perpendicular to said surface, a rotary stitch lock mechanism co-operating with said needle to stitch said two-ply material together on said surface, a rotary pinking'wheel substantially coaxially aligned with said stitch lock mechanism about substantially coinciding axes disposed substantially parallel to'said surface with the pinking wheel disposed below said surface and projecting slightly above said surface and a 00- operating anvil comprisinga disk rotatably mounted above said surface about an axis substantially perpendicular to said coinciding axes with a flat side of said disk in contact with the peripheral'face of the pinking wheel for pinking said two-ply material in spaced relation to said stitching, means for intermittently actuating said feeding means and said pinking wheel synchronously to advance said material step by step and to pink said material as it passes along said surface, means for folding the upper ply of said material laterally upon itself and in advance of said stitching and pinking to provide a doubling of said upper ply of material at said stitching mechanism, to produce a pinked French seam with a single row of stitches passing through said three-ply material.

12. An attachment for a sewing machine having a work-supporting surface and adapted normally for sewing regular plain seams, said attachment comprising a rotary pinking wheel and means for driving the same disposed below said surface and a co-operating rotary anvil disk above said surface in a plane substantially parallel to the plane of said surface for the production of plain pinked seams, and readily removable means for supporting said anvil to permit production of regular plain or plain pinked seams at will.

13. An attachment for a sewing machine having a work-supporting surface and adapted nor-.

mally for sewing regular plain seams, said attachment comprising a rotary pinking wheel dis.-

posed below said surface about an axis substantially parallel to said surface and a co-operating anvil rotatably mounted above said surface about an axis substantially perpendicular to said pinking wheel axis for the production of plain pinked seams, means above said surface and independent of said anvil for folding material priorto sewing and pinking to provide French pinked seams, and readily removable means for supporting saidanvil and separate readilyremovable means for supporting said folding means to pro vide for the production of regular plain seams,

plain pinked seams, or French pinked seams at .rotatably mounted above said surface about an' axis substantially perpendicular to said pinking wheel axis and at an angle to said vertical plane with a flat side of said rotary anvil contacting with the peripheral surf-ace of said pinking wheel at a point to one side of said vertical plane.

. ADOLPH SPIELMAN. 

